Archive for June, 2008
MI6, UK
Japanese firm Heave-ho Inc have inked a deal with EON Productions to licence exclusive James Bond themed apparel in the county. The agreement covers all 22 of 007’s adventures to date, including the upcoming “Quantum of Solace”, to be released in Japan in early 2009. Heave-ho will exclusively produce clothing based on the series for Japan.
The first wave of 007 themed merchandise will hit stores in Japan from July 2008. Fans can pick up the items from leading department stores in Japan, as well selected fashion sites such as Vanquish The Corner. Sales from the chain are expected to bring in 5 billion Yen (approximately $47 million USD) over the first year across 15 brands.
Products revealed so far include short-sleeved T-shirts, long-sleeved T-shirts, tank tops, and hooded sweatshirts. The licensed merchandise will use logos and imagery from the films and posters.
One of the first T-shirts features a 007 logo and Halle Berry as Jinx from the 2002 film “Die Another Day”, while another uses the slogan “Bond. James Bond.” with silhouettes of Bond girls in the O’s and D’s. Further items will be launched to celebrate “Quantum of Solace” produced by some of Japan’s top designers.
Two years ago, as part of the marketing push to establish the new 007 as a global brand, Daniel Craig promoted “Casino Royale” in Tokyo shortly after its premiere and the film went on to scoop almost $19m at the Japanese box-office
June 30th, 2008
Daily Times, Pakistan
* Govt mimicking approach of previous regime
* Move described as ‘political rather than economic’
By Sajid Chaudhry
ISLAMABAD: Despite dismal exports performance in the outgoing Fiscal Year 2007-08, the textile sector is likely to grab a Rs 30 billion Research and Development (R&D) support for the next Fiscal Year 2008-09, a high placed government official informed Daily Times Saturday.
The Economic Co-ordination Committee (ECC) of the Cabinet which is scheduled to meet on July 1, 2008 at Karachi, in the chairmanship of the Prime Minister Syed Yousuf Raza Gilani, is likely to allocate the amount for R&D support for the textile sector, the official added.
The textile sector, which has already enjoyed a huge sum of Rs 19 billion subsidies as R&D support during the outgoing Fiscal Year 2007-08, has failed to produce results and over all sector sector’s exports have witnessed a decline of 2.5 percent. The textile exports during July-May period of outgoing Fiscal Year 2007-08 have managed to reach at $9.591 billion as against the $9.837 billion in the same period of previous Fiscal Year 2006-07.
After availing subsidy equal to $320 million in the last two years, the textile sector has failed to increase the textile export to the same level. Textile exports have witnessed a decline of $246 million in July-May period of outgoing Fiscal Year 2007-08 as compared to the same period in the previous fiscal year. The authorities concerned feel that R&D support should not be allowed, as this is making local textile industry more un-competitive and it is relying on subsidies rather than competition.
This textile subsidy is to be provided out of the budget estimates for the 2008-09 and it would be an additional burden on national exchequer. The present government, which has been criticising the previous government for allowing out of the budget R&D support to the textile sector, is going to repeat the same practice in the next fiscal year.
The previous government had not allocated a single rupee under the head of R&D in the budget for the Fiscal Year 2007-08; however, it approved and provided out of the budget R&D support to the tune of Rs 19 billion. However, the next ECC meeting is likely to approve a huge sum of Rs 30 billion as R&D for the textile sector without taking in to account the performance of the sector.
The authorities are of the view that R&D support was actually meant for product development and research for improvement in designs and export competition. According to the reports the R&D support is being misused to a large extent and authorities concerned have already decided to conduct audit of the textile units availing such subsidy.
At this point of time when the country is under pressure due to projected heavy budget deficit of Rs 737 billion in the outgoing Fiscal Year 2007-08, allocation of a huge amount as textile subsidy is being viewed as political decision rather than an economic one.
Budget deficit of the country has been estimated at Rs 661 billion and after ensuring saving of Rs 79 billion cash balance surplus of provinces, the consolidated budget deficit of the country is set to come down to Rs 582.3 billion in the upcoming Fiscal Year 2008-09.
Government has plans to borrow Rs 557.6 billion from internal and external resources to finance the budget deficit in the upcoming Fiscal Year 2008-09. According to the government’s strategy to finance the budget through opting different borrowing options in the next Fiscal Year , the government would borrow Rs 165.2 billion from external sources, non-bank borrowing of the federal government will be Rs 242.9 billion and Rs 149.5 billion are to be borrowed from banking sector. Apart from the internal and external borrowing options, privatisation proceeds to the tune of Rs 25 billion would also help bridge the income expenditure gap and meet the overall consolidated budget deficit of Rs 582.3 billion.
June 29th, 2008
Independent-Bangladesh, Bangladesh
The garment exporters have asked international buyers to hike prices of readymade garments, BKMEA president Fazlul Hoque said Saturday, reports bdnews24.com
Steering committee members of the Multi Fibre Bangladesh made the demand at the two-day conference of Multi Fibre Arrangement Forum at the Westin in Dhaka.
Donor countries, agencies and buyers formed the MFA in 2004 in order to help the garment exporting countries affected by the withdrawal of quota system.
Hoque, also co-chairman of MFB steering committee, at a press briefing said prices of Bangladeshi garments dropped alarmingly on global markets in recent times.
“The shirt we sold at $10 one year ago now costs $ 8.5,” he said.
Besides, the price of raw materials necessary for readymade garments also fell by 15 percent, he reasoned.
According to a review of the Export Promotion Bureau, the government’s export wing, garments export in the first 10 months of fiscal 2007-08 rose but price index went down by 1.5 percent.
Paul Dearman, a representative from the British firm Tesco, joint secretary of the commerce ministry Mostafa Mohiuddin and Foysal Samad, director of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) were present at the press briefing.
“According to BGMEA and BKMEA statistics, prices of readymade garments fell by up to 16 percent in last one and half years. In this situation, we made a demand to the buyers to increase the price,” Hoque said.
He said the buyers said nothing about the demand but added that the issue would get emphasis at the Dhaka declaration the conference is set to adopt.
Dearman told reporters that Bangladeshi exporters needed to enhance their bargaining power with the buyers.
He said he would inform a related forum about the exporters’ proposal.
Hoque said: “Buyers often criticise us for issues such as compliance, workers rights and quality of goods. We’ve improved the quality, increased workers wages and spent more on other sectors. But they were not flexible about prices.”
Karmajibi Nari, the Federation of Garments Workers and representatives of garment workers were present at the second session of the conference.
They demanded withdrawal of the ban on trade union activities under the state of emergency.
The first conference of the MFA Forum was held in London in Sep 2006.
Hoque said Bangladesh proved it wrong that withdrawal of quota system would jeopardise the local garment industry.
“We don’t have any problem with quota. Our main problem is the low prices of our products. We are waiting to see what steps MFA Forum takes to [address the issue],” Hoque said.
Representatives from garments importers including Wal-Mart, Tesco, Levi Strauss and Khan Lucas Lancaster are taking part in the conference.
June 29th, 2008
Fibre2fashion.com, India
By : Neelam Srivastav
When apparel industry is concerned, we first start thinking, how apparels are generated, which engineering is playing an important role into it. Right from the beginning of conceiving an idea for designing arrangement and finished with a brand name. The tiniest unit of a garment is fibre which, further takes shape to yarn and threads.
Threads similarly play a vital role in Apparel Industry in construction and stitching of garment. Now, here we will talk what is seam engineering.
Seam Engineering
It includes seam and stitch construction. The more thread a stitch consumes, the greater is the strength. This is clearly visible when we compare lock stitch and chain stitch. Lock stitch is one in which thread is locked both sides of the fabric and starts with 301 lock stitch. It undergoes more shearing as compared to chain stitch and over edge stitch. As in lockstitch threads are interlocked rather than inter-looped.
Another concept attached to seam strength is SPI (stitch per inch)- this again goes back to the words that more is the thread in the seam, the more is the strength of the seam. This again varies as per the fabrics where, too many stitches might damage the fabric as picking at one place increases, leading to weakening of the yarn. However, it also leads to production loss with increase in the puckering number.
How to estimate seam Strength
Now, for estimating the strength there are certain formulas that are developed for different kinds of fabric strength.
1) 301 lock stitch formula 401 chain stitch formula
SPI* Thd. strength*1.5* = estimated seam strength
For e.g. 10*4.01 bs*1.5 = 601 bs
2) For apparels, normal loop strength
SPI*Thd. strength*1.7 = estimated Seam Strength
For e.g. 10*4.01 bs*1.7 = 681 bs
3) For Woven Fabrics
Stitch Type- 301 lock stitch or 401 chain stitch
Thread strength- Single end breaking strength of the threads measured in Pounds.
Machine Adjustments for stitch tensions
Greater seam strength can be obtained by adjusting the sewingthreads tensions, threads controls and eyelets etc.
More of sewing machine thread tension will lead to reduce of the seam strength along with many sewing problems.
Factors for Seam Strength
Abrasion Resistance: this is an important factor for upholstery, footwear and in carpet manufacturing as well as into apparels. This includes fiber type, fibre size and shape, thread construction and, thread size.
Stitch and seam construction: Present quality measurement standards of apparels ASTN, AATCC for evaluating the toughness of sewing threads. They are conducting comprehensive test using a modified crokometer.
Threads of various types are now available and each one has its own tickets no. and weight through which it is identified. A manufacturer should be more careful while making a choice of thread for a garment.
Revolution in thread manufacturing has ensured the availability of thread quality as per the fabric demands. One who is aware of quality, parameters of threads and, machine type, lubrication of machine and to thread can successfully lead adding quality to apparels and its manufacturing.
About the Author:
The author is the Principal of J. D. Institute of Fashion Technology.
June 27th, 2008
L’express.mu, Mauritius
Certain proposals in the recent budget can have a devastating impact on certain sections of Mauritian industry and society. However, I wish to reiterate my belief and confidence in your able leadership and reaffirm that normally, your decisions are for the betterment of Mauritian economy in general.
You have proposed to reduce import duty on garments from Rs 50 to Rs 30. Such a proposal is likely to impart ONLY the following benefits:
1. Imported garments may become little cheaper in Mauritius. Although we may point out that importers may not pass on entire benefits of reduced import duty and keep part of it for themselves to enhance their profit margins.
2. It may encourage other existing business to indulge in garment imports.
3. Such a move can encourage even individuals (without any business set up or know-how) to import garments (but it leads to certain malpractices harmful to the economy).
However, it appears that you have not really had an in-depth study of the situation, as I would say “without looking at other side of the coin”.
Reduction in import duty on garments will have far-reaching consequences and wider ramifications, impacting large section of Mauritian society and business, which ultimately affect nation’s economy as well:
1. You will agree that Mauritius so far is predominantly a tourist economy. We do export sugar. However, it is not a big revenue earner. This apart, there are no big/huge exporting/manufacturing industries in Mauritius without importing raw materials. However, in today’s world, economies of various countries are becoming stronger, driven by a strong domestic manufacturing base, which not only caters for domestic needs but also becomes a major exporting hub.
There are countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, etc., which are less literate and poorer compared to Mauritius. However, government has encouraged on a massive scale expanding domestic manufacturing base for domestic as well as global markets. In garments, very high grade skills are not required and even an illiterate/semi-literate workforce becomes expert (over a period of time). Since governments of countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam could not massively invest in a huge education infrastructure, these governments realised that the evolution of garment industry was the best way to gainfully employ the unemployed workforce and hence, these governments (instead of allowing cheaper import of garments) provided big incentives to the garment industry. In a short span of few years, these countries have become a major export hub to Europe and USA and giving tough competition to established and big economies like India and China.
2. Government has been talking about encouragement of SMEs, which really is a noble idea. The Development Bank of Mauritius has given small loans to many SMEs and roughly 70% of existing SMEs are in the garment making business. Last week, I personally heard something you said on Radio1 that SMEs directly/indirectly involve 100,000 people. Thus the garment industry is already at a disadvantage against China and other countries due to Mauritius being a high-cost island (See small mathematical calculation below). There is no doubt that reduction in import duty on garments will almost kill the SMEs engaged in garment manufacturing. You will also agree that importing countries don’t become strong economies. With rising import bills, currency has more chance in getting weaker and weaker.
3. If garment factories start closing down, due to above reasons, it will lead to massive unemployment, a workforce which may not be suitable for any other industry except trading on the roadside. It will affect the fortunes and future of thousands of families who depend on the garment industry for their livelihood.
4. Hundreds of entrepreneurs have invested huge amounts of their own hard-earned capital in these enterprises and even taken bank finance for expansion, etc. These entrepreneurs will suffer heavy losses and may not be even able to repay their bank loans. Banks will feel slowdown in their future business as loan disbursement to garment industry will vanish. Thus, national wealth will start getting eroded.
5. Every worker who is working for a SME, not mentioning the high rising cost of living, is expecting an increase in salary but at the same time, SME owners are thinking of how to compete with direct importers of garments and at a certain moment, they too land in closing down factories and get engaged in imports and sell on wholesale directly – but here again you will agree that the normal worker (machinist – supervisor – production manger – helper – those involved in packing / finishing / ironing, etc. – may not be able due to lack of money to follow the footstep of the importer.
5. For imports(avoidable imports), valuable foreign exchanged is being frittered away.
6.In my idea, your decision to reduce import duty is like “Robbing Peter to pay Paul”. Due to reduced import duty, government will be losing revenue which tantamounts to subsidizing other country’s businessmen. Foreign businessmen (China-India-Vietnam- Sri Lanka – who are exporting garments to Mauritius) will be flourishing at the expense of Mauritian businessmen’s miseries.
Even, global economy is becoming like a global village and international barriers are being reduced to encourage cross border business but no government does so at the expense of domestic population. Even the most developed economies like US resort to import restriction to protect local industry. And, our industry is still fledgling which needs to be incubated by government support/funds to become a globally renowned garment manufacturer in coming decades.
7. Quality: It is a widely acknowledged fact that in general Chinese garment quality is not very good. On the other hand, although the Mauritian garment industry is not so big, still we have maintained highest standards of quality and the “Made In Mauritius” label commands respect even amongst rich tourists from Europe to USA. One well known factory in Mauritius - “Aquarelle” - is one of the most reputed firms all over the world as far as quality is concerned .
8. Finally, these garment factories (SMEs including non-registered ones – I mean those who stitch at home and have 1 or 2 machines) meet their fabric requirements from textile houses/shops/importers of fabrics. Once, the garment industry starts closing down, business of textile businessmen will drop sharply. It is a certainty that in such an eventuality even textile businessmen will suffer to same extent as the garment industry.
9. Those who are in business of garment accessories (those who sells thread, buttons, zippers, labels, tags, plastic bag for packing, hangers, etc. ” Magasin fourniture”, as we say, will also witness complete erosion in their business and disappear in the near future.
Thus, in some, import duty reduction can generate massive unemployment, bankruptcy of thousands of well-established businesses and further weakening of our currency.
10. Lastly, I personally heard on Radio 1 last week regarding NPC - you had rightly urged private sector to increase salaries of the employees. Majority of entrepreneurs/businessmen believe in providing best possible compensation to the employees to win their loyalty and hard work. However, salaries are always proportionate to the earnings of the enterprise. In view of rising imports of Chinese garments, profit margins of garment factories are already under severe pressure, making further expansions unviable (thus wiping out chances of generating significant new employment opportunities).
In fact, several garment manufacturers have already started cutting down their own production and resorting to imports as they find imports more convenient, less cumbersome and more profitable. If this trend catches speed and higher number of garment manufacturers resort to such tactics, it will bring doom for the working community because a worker, a machinist, a designer, a supervisor, a helper at packing stage don’t have enough money to become an importer and won’t be able to emulate his employer. What will this bring to the working class force if not their doom’s day ? It automatically brings a chain of destruction for the simple reason that every SME, which closes down, brings disaster to the society.
Hence I sincerely implore you to study my submission thoroughly and to reconsider your decision of import duty reduction on garments. I plead with you, for the sake of thousands of working class, hundreds of entrepreneurs and nation’s economy, to revoke the proposal of import duty reduction and continue with the existing duty.
Shariff Muhammad TAKI
June 26th, 2008
www.solopos.net
Solo (Espos) Â Sedikitnya 90% dari sekitar 6.000 motif batik di Kota Bengawan belum dilengkapi keterangan Hak Kekayaan Intelektual (HKI) sebagai aset daerah.
Sementara itu, pada tahun 2008 ini Pemkot Solo berencana mendaftarkan 140 motif batik, mengikuti sedikitnya 415 motif lain yang sudah terdaftar pada periode 2004-2006.
Kasubdin Perindustian Dinas Perindustrian Pedagangan dan Penanaman Modal (Disperindag PM) Solo, Sri Wahyuni, saat ditemuiEspos di ruang kerjanya, akhir pekan lalu mengatakan pendaftaran motif batik telah dimulai pada tahun 2004 pada sebanyak 215 motif batik dan disusul pada tahun 2006 untuk 200-an motif batik.
â€Pada tahun ini, dengan anggaran senilai Rp 70 juta dari APBD Solo kami mentargetkan dapat mendaftarkan 140 motif batik lagi. Memang motif yang terdaftar belum banyak jika dibanding dengan motif batik yang ada di Solo,†urai Yuni, sapaan akrab dia, didampingi Staf Industri Kecil, Satoto.
Dia menegaskan, pada umumnya kesadaran kalangan pengrajin untuk mendaftarkan hasil karyanya, tidak hanya motif batik, diakui masih rendah. Untuk motif batik saja, Satoto menimpali, terdapat sedikitnya 6.000 motif batik hasil karya pengrajin di Solo. Dari angka tersebut jika target 2008 terpenuhi, baru tercatat sekitar 9,2% motif batik mendapat pengakuan HKI.
Padahal, jika ditilik dari biayanya, Yuni mengatakan tidak terlalu mahal. Biaya untuk mendaftarkan satu ciptaan dalam hal ini motif batik hanya sekitar Rp 500.000. Hanya saja, dia tidak memungkiri, prosedur untuk mendapatkan pengakuan HKI tersebut tidak mudah dan membutuhkan waktu yang lama, paling tidak setahun. â€Prosedurnya memang agak panjang, tapi sebenarnya kalau kesadaran masyarakat sudah terbangun saya kira tidak masalah,†tukas dia.
Keuntungan pribadi
Lebih jauh, Satoto menjelaskan upaya Pemkot untuk mendaftarkan motif batik pengrajin Solo dilakukan untuk mengantisipasi kemungkinan penggunaan motif batik itu oleh kalangan di luar Solo, bahkan di luar Indonesia, untuk mendapat keuntungan pribadi.
Dengan mendaftarkan motif batik atas nama Pemkot Solo, lanjut dia, para pengrajin di kawasan Kota Bengawan tidak perlu khawatir motif batik akan dijiplak pengrajin lain dengan memanfaatkan populernya batik Solo.
Dia menerangkan, untuk mendaftarkan motif batik atas nama Pemkot Solo, motif batik tersebut harus diakui ciptaan asosiasi pengrajin batik, baik berupa koperasi batik maupun paguyuban. Koperasi dan paguyuban yang nantinya akan digandeng Pemkot, disebutkan dia, antara lain Koperasi Pamong Penguasa Batik Solo (PPBS), Koperasi batik Bathari, Koperasi Batik KPN, Forum Kampung Batik Laweyan dan Kampung Wisata Batik Kauman. â€Pengakuan HKI memberi penegasan bahwa batik motif tertentu adalah milik wong Solo,†tegasnya.
Di luar pengakuan HKI motif batik, Satoto menambahkan, para pengrajin batik di Solo sebenarnya mulai menyadari perlunya HKI. Namun, untuk saat ini kesadaran tersebut masih terbatas pada keasadan HKI merk dagang. Berdasarkan pengamatan pihaknya, 25% merk dagang batik Solo telah terdaftar dan mendapat pengakuan resmi Dirjen HKI, Departemen Kehakiman dan Hak Asasi manusia (HAM). - Tika Sekar Arum
June 25th, 2008
State Gazette, TN
Special to the State Gazette
A Lake County farmer will be part of a National Cotton Council leadership team scheduled to visit China this week to see its cotton industry development and continue building a relationship with U.S. raw cotton’s No. 1 customer.
Tiptonville’s John Lindamood will join NCC Vice Chairman Jay Hardwick, a Newellton, La., producer; C.B. “Chuck” Coley, Vienna, Geo.; and Eddie Smith, Floydada, Texas; along with warehousemen, Trent Felton, Marianna, Ark., and Dean Church, Lubbock, Texas; ginner, Sid Brough, Edroy, Texas; merchant, Cameron Austin, Dallas, Texas; and cooperative official, Jarral Neeper, Bakersfield, Calif. Dr. Gary Adams, NCC’s vice president, Economics & Policy Analysis, will accompany the group.
“This visit continues a healthy dialogue and interaction between the U.S. and Chinese cotton industries,” Hardwick said.
“Learning more about China’s cotton infrastructure, its standards, marketing practices, policies and their overall raw cotton needs will be invaluable in helping U.S. cotton continue to supply the type of fiber and service this rapidly growing country requires. Acquiring this in-depth understanding is essential to ensuring our industry’s competitiveness in today’s global marketplace.”
This visit will build on previous China cotton industry familiarization trips by U.S. cotton leaders, including a fact-finding effort in October 2006 and a June 2007 mission in which U.S. cotton leaders and USDA officials updated Chinese cotton industry officials and mill buyers on U.S. cotton quality.
The visits are part of the U.S.-China Cotton Leadership Exchange Program established by the NCC and the Chinese Cotton Association (CCA) in 2006. The visits are in accordance with a subsequent signed “Memorandum of Understanding” between the NCC and CCA that promised cooperation between the countries’ cotton industries.
Among stops on the 2008 U.S. delegation tour will be a genetic engineering laboratory at the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences in Beijing; seed field trials and a meeting with farmers in Hebei Province; the Huafu Yarn Mill and a seminar with merchants and textile manufacturers in Zhejing Province; and the Wuxi No. 1 Cotton Mill and warehouses/consignment stocks in Jiangsu Province.
June 24th, 2008
Turkish Daily News (subscription), Turkey
Although Turkey has achieved great success in textile exports, especially during the last decades, there are many troubles the sector needs to overcome, says Hikmet Tanrıverdi, who has been an effective player of the sector for the past 33 years
EVRÄ°M SEL
ISTANBUL - Turkish Daily News
The textile and ready-to-wear clothing industry, one of Turkey’s leading export sectors, has come a long way since the 1980s, the chairman of a prominent Turkish textile manufacturer told the Turkish Daily News recently.
The sector currently has an export potential of $15.6 billion, said Hikmet Tanrıverdi, chairman of the Istanbul-based İnci Group, an active player in textiles for the past 33 years. In the 1980s, the sector had an annual export potential of only $90 million, he said, adding that during the last 20 to 30 years the Turkish textile industry has taken a great leap forward and began to make a name for itself in European and U.S. markets.
The sector today has an 8 percent share of the country’s gross national product and a 17 percent share of industrial production. It provides 11.5 percent of employment in Turkey, Tanrıverdi added.
Currently, the ready-wear and confection sectors have exports totaling $25 billion annually. Some 10 million people earn their living from working in the industry. �Although we have come a long way, it now is the time to set new goals. Turkey has to get rid of the �contract manufacturer’ image and invest in creating brands,� said Tanrıverdi. �Italy creates a global brand every 10 years or so, with major support provided by the government.�
The Turquality Project, the world’s first and only government-supported program to create global brands, is a positive step, he said. �It provides incentives to companies looking to create powerful brands, which means more added value and market share in an environment of high competitiveness,� said Tanrıverdi, adding he still thinks resources for the project should be increased and spread.
Sector troubles:
Overall, Tanrıverdi gave a positive outlook for the sector, but admitted there still are many problems. �Especially the annulment of quotas implemented to far eastern countries in 2004, insistence on a high-interest, low-exchange-rate policy and employee costs are among the main troubles we have to face with.�
Allowing excessive imports instead of implementing a growth policy focused on exports is also a problem, he added.
China’s effects:
�China is not a threat only for Turkey, it is a threat for the entire world,� he claimed. �Low labor and production costs have helped it to become the world’s largest producer. And China is not the only threat. India, Indonesia and Bangladesh constitute major threats as well.�
On the other hand, the number of wealthy individuals in China is �double the number of the wealthy in Turkey.� In this respect, China is also an opportunity for Turkish companies, he said.
A high interest rate, low currency rate situation is a commonly-voiced concern of sector representatives, said Tanrıverdi. �This implementation does not only negatively affect the textile and ready-to-wear sectors, it also threatens macroeconomic stability. Turkey needs to implement a monetary policy, which would support production,� he added.
At first glance, Turkey may seem like a textile export base. However, the fact that Turkey’s exports totaled $6.4 billion in 2007 while imports totaled $8.23 billion, shows this does not reflect the whole truth, reported Åževket Sürek in business daily Referans last month.
The confection export volume of $750 million in 2005, $1.036 billion in 2006 and $1.52 billion in 2007 are not included in that figure, Sürek noted.
�To solve these issues, Eximbank should get back on track, and begin to provide support for the exporter,� Tanrıverdi suggested. �The bank should enable a variety of loan programs, widen its horizons and lower loan interests. It should also implement factoring transactions at a more affordable price.�
June 23rd, 2008
Fibre2fashion.com, India
Batik, an art form that combines the illustrative skills of an artist with a wax-resist dyeing technique that is applied to natural fabric - cotton, silk, linen, and rayon, has created a niche for itself in the international market.
Buddhi Batiks, a well known company in this field, is presently experiencing a huge demand in India.
Ms Darshi Keerthisena, Director/Head of Design, Buddhi Batiks informed Fibre2fashion, “At Buddhi Batiks we strive to combine the artistry of the traditional Sri Lankan batik craft with modern design, giving new life to a cottage industry. We produce apparel and accessories that cater to contemporary fashion trends while still remaining true to our Sri Lankan roots. We use innovative fabrics not traditionally used in Sri Lankan batik such as silk satin, chiffon, and georgette, which have captivated the fashion market, especially when they are presented in the form of our famous designer saris.â€
Divulging about the production line Ms Keerthisena, stated, “We produce a full range of contemporary women’s wear: dresses, tops, skirts, knitwear, beachwear, and underwear. We are working on a range of swimsuits, which together with the accompanying batik cover-ups (kaftans, robes, beach wraps, skirts) and accessories, will form a complete range of swimwear aimed at the EU and US market. We also produce a complete range of men’s wear: shirts (both cotton and silk), sarongs, Blazers, full suits, denim jeans, T-shirts, and hoodies.â€
“Sri Lankan sari and talent, both are unique and Indian customers have already accepted that; now I want to promote this exclusiveness in the global market as well,†said Ms Darshi proudly.
The Buddhi Batiks atelier was founded in 1970 and is located in the village of Koswadiya. The workshop employs primarily women from within the village. Further the Ms Keerthisena reiterated, “We have a special quality control unit that supervises the production process - cloth waxing, colour blending, dyeing, and tailoring - to ensure the consistency and high quality of the product.â€
“While our commercial success has provided a tremendous impetus to the company, we have reinvested most of our profits to upgrade the batik workshop, introduce eco-friendly methods, and increase the salaries of the batik artisans who are cajoled into producing work of a higher quality, both in aesthetic terms and in final finish. Most importantly, we have been experimenting, pushing the limits of the batik craft still further with new styles, silhouettes, and even more fabrics—velvet, lurex, denim—all with a view to reaching a level of maturity in product range and quality that will enable the Buddhi Batiks vision of becoming a complete international brand.â€
Buddhi Batiks has participated in a fashion show which held in Bangalore, alongside some of the stars of the Indian fashion industry — Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit Bal, Krishna Mehta, Abraham and Thakore, J J Valaya, and many others. The Group also retails in Indian stores in Chennai and Bangalore.
Fibre2fashion News Desk - India
June 21st, 2008
Fibre2fashion.com, India
Source: www.textilefabric.com
Fall has fallen, and winter is on its way, yet another season seems to be prominent due to batik springing up everywhere! This ancient printing craft originated in Java, and has been practiced there for centuries.
Batik is generally observed as an indigenous Indonesian (Java) textile, although influences from all corners of the world have enriched its inherently beautiful design. Fashions and furnishings are utilizing batik prints in increasing numbers, causing their industries to acknowledge the beauty and artistry of this brilliant 2,000 year-old tradition.
Batik prints are generally composed of flower motifs, twinning plants, leaves and buds, birds, butterflies, fish, geometric forms and patterns, small animals and insects. The innovations in batik patterns are endless, as there are nearly 3,000 varieties on record. The word “batik” is in Indonesian in origin, and occurs as “ambatik” in Javanese; it means “drawing” and “writing.” These two words describe what it means to print batik: to draw patterns and designs free hand with hot wax, followed by painting between the waxed sections. Then the fabric is re-waxed, cloth dyed, and boiled.
Batik Technique
Performing the batik technique can be done in a factory for mass production, or in smaller quantities per yard; this is done by hand, which is the traditional way to batik print. The factory method was put in place.1850 in order to compete with a burgeoning European fashion market. This method uses a metal stamp, called a “cap,” to apply the hot wax; the stamp is heated, dipped in the hot wax, and the surface of the cap is then pressed on to the cloth. The traditional method, done by hand, utilizes a wooden, pen-like “canting” filled with the hot, liquid wax that is drawn on to the fabric’s surface.
The next steps are the same regardless of the beginning method. The newly waxed cloth must be laid out on a table to be painted. Colors are brushed between the wax lines to complete the designs. Then the colored areas are re-waxed in black so the background dyes do not penetrate the new pattern.
The fashion and upholstery industries are utilizing batik patterns now more than ever. They’re popping up all over the runways, shopping centers, and furniture showrooms. The urban fashion industry is embracing the tradition by manufacturing sarongs, scarves, dresses, jackets, and accessories for the ready-to-wear market. This facet of the industry focuses on the West African, Middle Eastern, and Native American batik tradition. These cultures influenced mainstream batik printing, as well as inventing new styles.The Middle Eastern population often favored the patterns that were based on the patola designs from India, as well as designs that featured the color green. Historically, green was a sacred color in the Muslim faith. The introduction of Islam to this area also affected batik printing in that the Islamic faith forbade the depiction of life-like pictures; this prompted the use of stylized patterns without representation of human or animal forms. They generally printed their batik designs on cotton, voile, or silk, much like the traditional batik printing is done.
West African and Native American batik prints often depict the activities of people interacting in daily life. The patterns show people grinding corn, carrying water or firewood, braiding hair, dancing in ceremonies, praying for rain, or showing caricatures of emotions. Many of their batik patterns are printed on Kente cloth or mudcloth, cotton, or voile. These cultures brought the use of new fabrics to the forefront of the batik revolution.
The Middle Eastern, West African, and Native American cultures popularized these traditional patterns through clothing beginning in the late 1960’s. The upholstery and furnishings industry became familiar with the batik tradition much earlier, yet prominence did not come until the early 1950’s; its popularity has yet to decrease. Several different cultures have influenced the patterns and designs of this facet of the industry.
The Chinese contributed to the batik design are most evident in the addition of more flower and bird motifs, border patterns, and incorporating the use of pinks, yellows, and blues. Dutch and Eurasian women have favored the use of European floral bouquets, birds, bees, trees and butterflies in their patterns, a trend that is one of the most popular in use today. All three cultures influenced the design and color combinations so heavily, that batik is often associated with their influential characteristics.
Batik prints are so common in our society today, that it’s hard to imagine a life without their beauty. Batik prints are in our art, on our loveseats, and in our wardrobe. They’re hanging over our bay windows, and adorning our walls with their elegance. Batik printing, patterns and designs have enriched many facets of an artistic heritage that encompasses many regions of the world.
A tradition that started on a small island 2,000 years ago has evolved into a world-renowned practice. Fashions and furnishings helped bring the beauty of this tradition to world wide prominence. Batik apparel was formerly the clothing of aristocracy; batik is now the art of the world.
Source:
Harris, Jennifer. Textiles 5,000 Years: An International History and Illustrated Survey;
Harry N. Abrams, Inc., Publishers.Pp. 161-165.
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June 21st, 2008
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